Pruning First and Second Leaf Almonds

Written By Brent Holtz, UCCE Madera County Farm AdvisorPruning after the first growing season is critical in determining the shape and performance of an almond tree. At this time you should select three permanent primary scaffolds that will form the framework of the tree. I have seen quite a few first year trees pruned improperly in Madera County, resulting in premature loss of tree vigor, increased susceptibility to disease, and in some extreme cases the eventual removal of orchards; all because these trees were pruned improperly their first dormant season. The primary goal of the first dormant pruning is to select three primary branches with as much space as possible between them (fig. 1-A). Wide spacing ensures the best chance of a strong branch attachment that will not split as the tree matures. The three primary scaffolds should be oriented 120 degrees apart when viewed from above (fig. 1-B). Such an arrangement reduces the chance of splitting branches, leaning trunks, and crossing limbs. If possible, one of the three primary scaffolds, preferably the strongest, should grow into the prevailing wind, usually northwest. A strong, vigorous limb on the north side helps keep the tree from being dominated by growth on the sunny south side of the tree. Pruners should also pay attention to the angle of the primary limbs when selecting them; for the scaffold angle determines whether bark will become embedded between limb and trunk. The ideal primary scaffold grows 45 degrees from the vertical and the horizontal (fig. 1-C). If the ideal limb is not present try to find limbs at least 30 degrees from the vertical or at least 30 degrees from the horizontal. Limbs that grow at too flat an angle tend to lose their vigor and upright orientation. Limbs where the bark becomes embedded will

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Hull Split Part 2: Hull Rot of Almond

As almond trees approach harvest, at about mid hull split, clusters of dry leaves begin to appear scattered through the tree canopy. Individual spurs, small shoots or entire small branches may collapse due to hull rot infections (Photo 1). The loss of fruiting wood, especially in the lower parts of the tree, can negatively affect yield for years to come. Nonpareil is usually the most severely affected cultivar though Sonora and Kapareil can also sustain extensive damage. Hull rot is caused by either of two fungi, Monilinia fructicola or Rhizopus stolonifer. Monilinia fructicola is best known as one of the brown rot fungi and R. stolonifer is often called the bread mold fungus, and will turn bread left out black and moldy. Photograph 1: Hullrot of almond caused by Rhizopus stolonifer. In the southern San Joaquin Valley I believe that Rhizopus is the primary pathogen responsible for hull rot while Monilinia may be more important in the Sacramento Valley. These two organisms are very different but can cause similar disease symptoms on almond. As the name implies, a lesion or dryish rotted area develops on the hull, and dense masses of Rhizopus spores produce a powdery dark gray to black growth between the hull and the shell (Photo 2). Monilinia spores are buff-colored and can be seen on inner and outer hull surfaces. The nut meat is not damaged, but a toxin produced in the infected hull moves from the hull into the neighboring leaves and shoots causing death of these tissues. Neither Monilinia nor Rhizopus are able to invade the healthy outer hull surface. Only after hull split begins can spores gain access to the inside of the hull and initiate infections. Once hull split starts, trees are at risk of becoming infected. One or both pathogens may be

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