A few questions come up every year in regards to fertilizing first, second, and third leaf trees. Since these trees are rapid growing, and in some cases, producing crop, adequate fertilization is crucial for growth.
First leaf trees: As a guideline, I generally recommend no more than one ounce of elemental nitrogen per tree per application. Three to four (or more) applications using a general blend (i.e. 12-12-12 NPK) fertilizer per year will produce a nice result. Using a triple 12, this totals about 8 ounces of actual fertilizer applied per tree. Applications should begin upon leaf out and continue about every 4-6 weeks. To prevent any nitrogen burn, the first applications of the year should be less than one ounce while later applications should not be greater than one ounce.
Although I know some growers are successful, I have observed enough tree damage to caution against using liquid based fertigation products for first leaf trees. It is easy to overdose the trees with nitrogen, especially in hot weather, causing tree die-back. I agree that using granular fertilizers is a conservative approach, but one that has been tested and used extensively over the years.
Second leaf trees: The rootzone of 2nd leaf trees can be quite extensive, but is still limited in comparison to mature trees. Even if the grower is able to fertigate, I usually still like to see the first application to be granular. Why? In many cases adequate potassium and phosphate have not been applied in the previous dormant season, thus applying a 12-12-12 fertilizer will ensure at least some level of these nutrients as the tree begins the rapid growth period of April and May. Later applications can be made through the fertigation system. Again, follow the rule of one ounce per tree per year of growth. So, no more than 2 ozs of elemental nitrogen at any one application. This is about 16 ozs of Triple 12, 11 ozs of CAN-17, or 6 ozs of UAN-32.
Third leaf trees: As the trees enter their “adolescent years,” caution must be used again when fertilizing. Follow the one ounce per tree per year of growth and in most cases burn should be avoided.
Slow orchard tree growth: If the trees are slightly stunted in size, it is better to reduce the rate of fertilization, apply more frequently, and apply nitrate sourced nitrogen to encourage growth. Usually, a stunted tree means a compromised root system. Using these strategies can help “spoon feed” the struggling tree.
Increasing Fertilizer Efficiency: With trees, it is better to fertilize smaller doses more frequently. This increases percentage of fertilizer uptake while reducing the risk of nutrient leaching. Following this principle, the rates mentioned above can be reduced and applied more frequently to ensure greater use efficiency amongst smaller trees.
Flood Irrigation: Be careful when applying a large dose of fertilizer which is followed quickly by an irrigation. Although this practice is recommended to increase fertilizer use efficiency, it can damage trees in hot weather. If the application is going to be close to the maximal rate as described above, and the weather conditions are greater than 85 degrees, making a slight reduction of applied rates (~10%) will reduce the risk of damage. This commonly occurs with hot weather because the trees are pulling large amounts of water which carries a high amount of nutrients into the trees. I have observed tree damage from this scenario about a handful of times with rates that initially appeared safe.
Fertilizing in cool, spring weather: Research suggests that using nitrate sourced nitrogen earlier in the growing season (Potassium nitrate, Calcium nitrate, etc) is more efficient in the earlier part of the season than urea or ammonium based fertilizers. Since urea and ammonium based fertilizers must be converted to nitrate by the soil-borne bacterial community, nitrate sources are more readily available for trees – especially in cooler soils. After soil temperatures increase, switching back to urea/ammonium based fertilizers is possible and can be done to reduce costs.
Philip
August 14, 2014What about fertilising when blossoms are appearing with first leafs?
Please explain second and third leaf trees
David Doll
August 18, 2014Philip,
Trees can be fertilized at bloom, but generally it is more efficient to wait until they are green. Nitrogen moves with water, and until the trees begin to pull water by transpiration, nitrogen does not move (for the most part) into the tree.
First leaf – first time the tree has leafed out in the orchard. This is used as a bit of “lingo” to save confusion since trees are usually completed their first year of growth when delivered from the nursery.
David
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slavco
April 12, 2016hi I want to ask I have almonds trees this year I use yaramill complex and yaramilla panther can youj tell me where I can find some programs for yaramilla fertilizers for almond how much to put per tree and what yaramilla fertilizers to use
David Doll
April 24, 2016Thanks for the comment. I am unsure of what specific programs in regards to the fertilizer due the varying types available. Generally, we use a blend (12-12-12) in which we applied no more than one ounce of actual nitrogen per tree at any given application, with no more than 4 applications. With that in mind, if the fertilizer is a 12% blend of nitrogen (e.g. 12-12-12), that would mean we would need 8 ozs of of fertilizer to deliver about one ounce of actual nitrogen.
If using the metric system, there are roughly 28.5 grams in an ounce.
David
Peter
May 4, 2016Hi my question is when should fertilizer be stopped in almond orchards? Mine are 8th leaf and my PCA sent me fertilizer. Whereas I hear from other almond farmers that we should stop fertilizing in April. Please advise, thanks
David Doll
May 6, 2016Peter,
Nitrogen is used by the tree through the whole year, with the majority of uptake required during kernel development. This process usually ends around mid- to late-May. Nitrogen fertilization can occur up to or even through that point, depending on the rate being applied and amount of nitrogen required for the crop. Generally, the advice has been to split the nitrogen budget with 80% being applied before the completion of kernel fill and 20% being applied in the post harvest period.
Typically, if applying multiple, small applications of nitrogen, more fertlization will be required than larger “slugs” of material. There is some evidence that multiple applications are more efficient than fewer, larger applications. More can be found here: https://thealmonddoctor.com/?s=nitrogen
Hope that helps,
David
Dana Pressley
January 17, 2017Hi David,
I was just wondering about planting new almond trees into soil that has had the previous trees reincorporated into it? Our land will be sitting for a year before planting the new trees but I would imagine there is still some available nitrogen that may need to be taken into account before fertilizing. Is it possible to add less than an ounce for the first application but still cause tree damage due to the N that is already available in the soil?
Thank you for your help!
-Dana
David Doll
January 19, 2017Dana,
A soil analysis will help determine the amount of residual nitrogen. If the amount is high, than fertilization rates should be reduced. I would still consider making one or two applications of an ounce or less in the spring due to the trees having a limited rootzone from the transplanting process. Once the roots begin to expand (and the tree grows), they will have access to a greater amount of stored soil nitrogen.
I doubt that the above application would cause nitrogen burn/uptake – even with high rates in the soil. If you are concerned, reducing the amount to 1/2-3/4 of an ounce would be okay.
David
Rose
June 14, 2017Hallow.
I’m a student working on Almond fertilization study and I have to supply each individual tree with it’s macro nutrients requirements. how much nurients should I supply for each tree, knowing that the trees cultivated as rain fed
David Doll
June 21, 2017My guess is around 2 ozs of NPK per tree for the rainfed conditions.
Dimitris
January 14, 2019Hi David,
I’m planting a few acres this year and I’m installing double drip lines.
Should I apply granular ferilizer with drip irrigation (double drip lines) and wait for rain or should I use a 20-20-20 water soluble mix for fertigation?
Thanks for your help
Dimitris
David Doll
January 21, 2019Dimitris,
Water running fertilizer will be the most efficient way, but it has risks. It is easy to apply too much fertilizer, which can damage the tree. If planning to water run, I would start with small, frequent applications – no more than a 1/2 ounce of N per tree for March-April. After that, the rate can be increased to 0.8-1.0 ozs/tree, totaling somewhere around 6-8 ozs/tree, depending on spacing (closer spaced trees are more nitrogen efficient in the early years).
Alteratively, a granular can be used.
Taking into consideration the factors above, I would water run the fertilizer every two weeks starting once the newly planted trees have 8-12″ of new growth.
Hope that helps,
David
Ash K
April 17, 2019Hi.
We have first leaf almond trees.
We have already applied the first NPK dose (granular, 12/12/12).
We are now planning the second application through the fertigation system.
However we also want to add some Ca, Zn, B, and Fe in the second application as they were shown to be low in the soil analysis prior to planting.
Is there a rough guide in respect of the micro nutrients which we can follow for first leaf trees?
David Doll
April 25, 2019Ash,
There isnt much work done on young trees and soil applied minor-major and micronutrients. Calcium applications should be made to help maintain soil structure, allowing better water infiltration. Calcium applications to accomplish this should provide enough Ca for the plant. Iron and zinc can be ground applied, but I wouldnt put out too much at once – maybe a few quarts of chelate (or other similar soil type product). Both of these nutrients should also be foliar applied as developing orchards struggle to maintain adequate tissue levels of zinc and iron due to the reduced uptake of Zn by most rootstocks. As the roots continue to expand, the severity of this deficiency decreases. Boron should be applied at low levels until the soil begins to export via almond hulls. I would think 0.1-0.2 ppm is sufficient within soils. If lower, an application of 0.1-0.2 lbs of actual boron would be sufficient to meet tree growth needs.
If applying compost, the micronutrients present within this material is often enough to meet the plant’s needs for the first and second year of growth.
Hope that helps,
David
Mushtaque
July 18, 2019Almond tree how much take time for fruiting. Mean much take time to nursery to be young tree?
David Doll
July 30, 2019Dear Mushtauqe,
Almonds can be produced on one year old wood. This means that some almonds will be produced on a two year old tree. As the tree grows, and the canopy size increases, more almonds will be produced. Bringing an almond tree to a level of production that is commercially viably is a more challenging question as this depends on farming practices. Higher input practices can grow a tree more rapid/y and bring it to bearing within 3 years. Less water and fertilizer will reduce the growth, which will take the tree longer to produce nuts at a maximum level.
Hope that helps,
David
Paula Rodrigues
February 7, 2020Hello,
I wonder if the use of fertilizers based on chlorides is harmful to the tree or to the quality of the fruit.
David Doll
February 9, 2020Paula,
Fertilizers with the chloride anion can be safe to use but they can also damage the tree if too much is applied. Do not apply a large application when water use by the tree is high. Furthermore, the use should be minimized in areas with low precipitation to reduce build-up within the soil. If applied when water use is low and in an area that receives 15-20 inches of rain/year, the risk of uptake is significantly reduced. Leaching the soil with dormant water applications can also reduce soil chloride levels.
Frances Eby
October 1, 2020hi, this maybe alittle long so here we go. I live in southern Michigan (lol) and 4 years ago I has weeding my veggie garden and saw a “weed” and was not familiar to it. I carefully pulled it and the almond nut was attached to the plant. Thus the Almond that i had feed the squirrels that winter. I repotted it in a pot and still have it. I repotted it 2x, bring it in during the winter. Now my question is can i plant it outside zone 6 or just continue in a pot and will it flower?
Thanks for your time.
David Doll
October 2, 2020I dont know. My guess is that it will survive, but won’t bear fruit. Really only one way to find out!
I should add that bitter almond grows in mountains throughout eastern Europe and Eurasia, with temperatures frequently below freezing.
David
Sapphire
November 11, 2021Hi David. We are planting new almond trees this year at 1250 altitude (the variety is Makako from spain). I read your Fertilizing Young Almond Trees article. But i could not understand the amount of 12-12-12 fertilizer. If you can answer i will be happy.
1. We will plant the trees at Dec and they will leaf at May. If we plan a Fertilizing program for the 12-12-12 fertilizer how much gram should i give to one tree for every application in first year. How much N is in 12-12-12 fertilizer per 100 gr? Thanks.
Davidd
November 21, 2021Sapphire,
Congratulations on your orchard development. The 12-12-12 is a fertilizer that contains 12% of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (N-P-K). This fertilizer doesnt have to be used, but a product containing some P and K would be helpful to help the trees grow. In regards to nitrogen, total amount that should be applied in the first year should be around 30-40 kg/ha, depending on tree density Applications should be small, not exceeding more than 20-25 grams of actual nitrogen in any single application. For us, on our farm, we typically apply nitrogen in small doses of 5-10g/tree, with multiple times through the season (usually 15 applications).
I hope this helps,
David
Sapphire
December 7, 2021Thanks for your reply. If you dont mind i need to ask one more question. According to our soil analysis N: very low, P: Very low and K: Very High. It says Very High for Potassium (K). But I made some reseach that the trees cant take that Potassium from the soil directly. So How can I use the Potassium element in the soil with this high potassium level so that the plants can take it?