Regional Considerations for Nitrogen Timing

Over the past few weeks, I have attended a few events that discussed the application timings of nitrogen. The results that were discussed at these events were based on an extensive five year study conducted by the University of California at a trial located in Kern County.One of the many findings of this study included the development of a nitrogen application schedule that maintains crop productivity. From this trial, the researchers have determined that 80% of the nitrogen should be applied before the completion of kernel fill (mid-June), while the remaining 20% should be applied in the post harvest. In the study, the researchers applied the spring nitrogen doses beginning in mid-February prior to bloom, and continued monthly until mid-May. They roughly followed a 10%-25%-25%-20% application schedule. The question remaining, especially with impending groundwater and nitrate regulations, is this applicable to all parts of California? The short answer is “Of course not,” as differing climates and soils create different challenges for growing almond efficiently. For example, in Merced County, we receive an average of 10-12 inches of rain and have some areas of very sandy soils. This is in contrast to the trial’s location in Kern County, which receives 6 inches of annual rainfall and is located on a sandy loam soil. Practices of nitrogen application, therefore, will vary by location – especially the timing of the first application. In a previous entry, I wrote about the movement of nitrate and the rationale for applying after leaf out. Although this is still the most efficient timing to apply nitrogen, I have since learned that there is some level of root uptake of nitrogen during the period of delayed-dormancy (bud-swell). This occurs due to nitrate, being found in a greater concentration outside of the root moves into the root to establish equilibrium. The higher

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Nitrogen within the soil: The Nitrogen Cycle

Figure 1: The various forms of nitrogen and processes within the nitrogen cycle. Sourced from wikipedia.org. Written by Dr. Larry Oldham (Mississippi State Extension Service) and David Doll. Nitrogen is in organic and inorganic forms in soils. Over 90 percent of soil N is associated with soil organic matter. Nitrogen is in compounds identifiable as part of the original organic material such as proteins, amino acids, or amino sugars, or in very complex unidentified substances in advanced stages of decomposition. Plants may use either ammonium (NH4+), or nitrate (NO3-) which behave quite differently in soils. Positively charged NH4+ is attracted to negatively charged sites on soil particles as are other cations. It is available to plants, but the electrostatic attraction protects it from leaching. Conversely, negatively charged NO3- does not react with the predominately negatively charged soil particles, so it remains in the soil solution, moves with the soil water, and is susceptible to leaching. Nitrogen transformations in soils/Nitrogen Cycle: Nitrogen conversions depend on soil moisture conditions, soil acidity, temperature, and microbial activity. Ammonium is absorbed on the cation exchange complex or taken up by plants without transformation, but most likely it is converted to NH4+ soon after its formation or addition as fertilizer. This nitrification is a two step process involving two different groups of soil bacteria. First Nitrosomas bacteria produce nitrite (NO2-). Nitrobacter species then convert NO2- to NO3- soon after its formation. The carbon used by these bacteria is derived solely from atmospheric CO2. a) 2NH4+ + 3O2 = 2NO2- + 2H2O + 4H+ + energy b) 2NO2- + O2 = 2NO3- + energy Two things to note: 1) NH4+ has a short residence time in soils before conversion to the more mobile NO3- form; and 2) hydrogen ions are produced which lower the soil pH. Mineralization is

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Nitrogen applications after leaf-out….Why?

Sourced from AccessScience topic of soil chemistry. Water moves within plant-soil system from wettest to driest. This gradient is termed water potential, and explains why irrigation works. Basically, the water potential gradient between the soil and the plant, from wettest to driest, would be wet soil, dryer soil, root, stem/trunk, branch, leaf, and finally, air. Water, when applied through irrigation or rain, will follow that path, moving through the soil, into and up the tree, and out the leaves through the stomata.The final destination for the water molecule is the driest environment, which is air. As an analogy, think of the plant as a wick of an oil lamp, as the oil is burned, oil moves up the wick out of the reservoir to the point of being burned, keeping the lamp lit. For more information, please follow the links for water potential and the process of mass flow. Since nitrate, the only form of nitrogen that is used by plants, is a water-soluble negatively charged particle (anion), it does not bind with most soils, and therefore remains in the water solution within soils. Once in solution, it moves with the water. As water moves into the plant’s roots and up into the plant, nitrate enters the root and plant as well. If there is no or low water demand by the plant due to conditions of dormancy, very little of the nitrate-water solution will move into the plant. Only when the process of transpiration begins does nitrate move into the growing tips of the plant, providing nitrogen, an essential element for plant anabolism. Since leaves are needed on the tree in order for transpiration of water to occur, applications of nitrogen before leaf-out are at risk for loss due to leaching from the root-zone. For example, lets say that

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Tips for Maximizing Nitrogen Use Efficiency for Almond

Previously this week, I wrote an article discussing nitrogen needs within the almond orchard. Application of nitrogen, as briefly discussed, varies in efficiency based upon techniques of application and irrigation/fertigation systems. Below are some tips to maximize efficiency and reduce losses for many common fertilizer application strategies. Maximize Efficiency:1. Apply N only when leaves are present and the tree roots are active. Avoid dormant season applications.2. Efficiency can be increased by applying N in small doses more frequently than large doses less frequently.3. Apply a uniform irrigation that is adequate to carry the N into but not past the root zone.4. Because young fruit trees have a fairly constant N uptake, apply multiple applications of N throughout the growing season.5. Mature trees need most of the N in the spring, around 70-75% of the nitrogen budget.6. Late summer/postharvest applications, 25-30% of the budget,will help with flower bud differentiation and formation for next year’s crop.7. Fertigation has generally been very efficient in N applications.8. Analyze leaves in July each year to fine tune N level to the orchard. Maintain the level in the adequate range. Minimize Losses:1. If fertilizer is surface applied, disc or irrigate N into the root zone shortly after application.2. Fertilize the tree, not the covercrop. Evaluate how best to bypass the covercrop. This may be by applying the fertilizer to the herbicide sprayed strip, mowing, or cultivating the covercrop.3. Don’t over irrigate. Nitrogen is soluble and moves with water. Excessive runoff of tail water or leaching will remove N.

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Fertilizing one-year old trees – be careful!

Nitrogen is the most important element we can apply to our tree fruit crops. Almond growth and productivity depend on the availability and uptake of nitrogen. Most fertilizer recommendations are based on making nitrogen available to our trees so that a nitrogen shortage does not limit tree growth or productivity. Young almond trees don’t require as much nitrogen as older trees. I like Wilbur Reil’s rule of “one ounce of actual nitrogen per year of age of tree”. That rate can be applied several times per season, but never more than that at any one application. Thus, a first leaf (first year in your orchard) almond tree should not receive more than one ounce of actual nitrogen per any application. A five year old almond tree should not receive more than 5 ounces of actual nitrogen per one single application. The University of California only recommends one ounce of actual nitrogen per one year old tree over the course of the season, but I have been told by many growers and PCAs that this rate is not enough for the growth they desire. So, if you want to put out five ounces of actual nitrogen per one year old tree, do so in five applications and not all at once! I have seen many trees burned by nitrogen, especially if liquid fertilizers like UN-32 (urea ammonium nitrate 32 %) or CAN 17 (a clear solution of calcium nitrate and ammonium nitrate) are used in single applications. These liquid fertilizers are very effective and easy to use but it doesn’t take much to burn young trees. I do not suggest using these liquid fertilizers on first leaf trees–I prefer to see triple 15-15-15 (15% Nitrogen – 15% Phosphorous – 15 % Potassium) fertilizers used on first leaf trees. I like to

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