Orchard Cover Cropping pt 1

Written by: Jessica Corcorran, Pomology Intern, UCCE Merced County Jessica was selected by a committee to serve in the Summer Pomology Internship Program funded by the Almond Board of California. Being assigned within Merced County, she is working on several research projects, attending farm calls, and getting a feel for what it takes to be an extension agent. It is our hope that her career path will lead to extension work, hopefully serving the almond industry within California. She is entering her Senior Year at Cal Poly. The use of orchard cover crops is not a new practice. The benefits of cover crops have long been recognized and have been widely used in agriculture. In recent years, cover crop use has increased due to a multitude of reasons which include soils health improvement, increased soil fertility, and increased water retention and penetration. In today’s post, I will cover the impacts of cover cropping on soil health. In subsequent posts, I will discuss other benefits of cover cropping, general pros and cons, as well as the practicalities of implementing a cover crop in an orchard.   Cover crops have the ability to greatly improve soil quality and structure. Water penetration is often compromised by soil compaction in orchard soils.  The roots of the cover crop and their ability to move through the soil can help to reduce soil compaction by tillage and harvesting equipment.  Plow pans have even shown to be corrected by the use of cover crops. The fibrous roots of the cover crop also help to stabilize soil aggregates, which improve soil structure and aids in effective water infiltration. The addition of organic matter in the soil invites beneficial microorganisms. During the breakdown of organic matter, indigestible compounds are formed that are resistant to decomposition. These compounds bind soil particles

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Checking Thermometers to Monitor Frost Temperatures

By: Maxwell Norton (UCCE Merced) During frost season it is important to precisely know how cold it gets in various parts of your orchard or vineyard. Affordable minimum recording thermometers are available through farm stores and are usually pretty accurate but you need to check them yourself every year because they can “drift” up or down over time. The “U” shaped minimum-maximum recording thermometers are usually accurate at one end or the other but rarely both. Don’t use a “freebee” or a decorative thermometer. Fill a plastic bucket up with ice. Add enough cold water to make a slurry. Shake the bucket gently so the slurry stays loose. Insert the thermometers into the ice & water mixture so that about 2/3 of the thermometer is submerged. If it is an electronic sensor and it is waterproof, make sure it is completely submerged. Electronic devices may have a separate procedure for calibrating – check the instructions or their web site. Let the thermometers sit for twenty minutes. Pull the thermometers out one by one and immediately note the temperature. In a mixture of water and ice, the temperature should be 32F. If not, mark a correction factor on the thermometer. If it is more than 2-3 degrees off, you probably should not use it for something as critical as frost management. Thermometers should be placed in the low spots in the field that get the coolest. They should be away from and preferably up-wind from buildings, blacktop, or anything that might radiate heat at night. The thermometer should be about four feet off the ground and not be exposed to the sky – a simple “shelter” consisting of a board to attach the thermometer to with a cover extending 6-8 inches over the top works. Position the thermometer horizontally with the

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