David Doll0 commentsApril 3, 2013Nutrient

Fertilizing Young Trees – First Year Trial Results

There have been several posts over the past few weeks about fertilizing mature almond trees. This data has been based upon long term studies held primarily in Kern County with some data points from across the state. Not all of this, however, is applicable to determining the rates of fertilization for developing almond orchards. At best, there are “educated guesses” in regards to identifying the proper rate for developing trees. Whole tree assays have found about 480 lbs of N/acre are stored within the woody biomass of mature trees. In order to reach that amount, trees would have to be accumulating nitrogen within the woody tissue at a rate of 20-50 lbs/acre/year until maturity (10-12th leaf). Once the tree begins to bear (~3rd/4th leaf), nutrients must be added to compensate for what is removed by the crop.

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David Doll24 CommentsMarch 25, 2011Nutrient

Fertilizing Young Almond Trees – A Few Tips

A few questions come up every year in regards to fertilizing first, second, and third leaf trees. Since these trees are rapid growing, and in some cases, producing crop, adequate fertilization is crucial for growth. First leaf trees: As a guideline, I generally recommend no more than one ounce of elemental nitrogen per tree per application. Three to four (or more) applications using a general blend (i.e. 12-12-12 NPK) fertilizer per year will produce a nice result. Using a triple 12, this totals about 8 ounces of actual fertilizer applied per tree.  Applications should begin upon leaf out and continue about every 4-6 weeks.  To prevent any nitrogen burn, the first applications of the year should be less than one ounce while later applications should not be greater than one ounce. Although I know some growers are successful, I have observed enough tree damage to caution against using liquid based fertigation products for first leaf trees. It is easy to overdose the trees with nitrogen, especially in hot weather, causing tree die-back. I agree that using granular fertilizers is a conservative approach, but one that has been tested and used extensively over the years. Second leaf trees: The rootzone of 2nd leaf trees can be quite extensive, but is still limited in comparison to mature trees. Even if the grower is able to fertigate, I usually still like to see the first application to be granular. Why? In many cases adequate potassium and phosphate have not been applied in the previous dormant season, thus applying a 12-12-12 fertilizer will ensure at least some level of these nutrients as the tree begins the rapid growth period of April and May. Later applications can be made through the fertigation system. Again, follow the rule of one ounce per tree per year of growth. So,

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Brent Holtz10 CommentsNovember 23, 2009Horticulture

Pruning First and Second Leaf Almonds

Written By Brent Holtz, UCCE Madera County Farm AdvisorPruning after the first growing season is critical in determining the shape and performance of an almond tree. At this time you should select three permanent primary scaffolds that will form the framework of the tree. I have seen quite a few first year trees pruned improperly in Madera County, resulting in premature loss of tree vigor, increased susceptibility to disease, and in some extreme cases the eventual removal of orchards; all because these trees were pruned improperly their first dormant season. The primary goal of the first dormant pruning is to select three primary branches with as much space as possible between them (fig. 1-A). Wide spacing ensures the best chance of a strong branch attachment that will not split as the tree matures. The three primary scaffolds should be oriented 120 degrees apart when viewed from above (fig. 1-B). Such an arrangement reduces the chance of splitting branches, leaning trunks, and crossing limbs. If possible, one of the three primary scaffolds, preferably the strongest, should grow into the prevailing wind, usually northwest. A strong, vigorous limb on the north side helps keep the tree from being dominated by growth on the sunny south side of the tree. Pruners should also pay attention to the angle of the primary limbs when selecting them; for the scaffold angle determines whether bark will become embedded between limb and trunk. The ideal primary scaffold grows 45 degrees from the vertical and the horizontal (fig. 1-C). If the ideal limb is not present try to find limbs at least 30 degrees from the vertical or at least 30 degrees from the horizontal. Limbs that grow at too flat an angle tend to lose their vigor and upright orientation. Limbs where the bark becomes embedded will

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