Annually, several calls regarding poor tree growth and “pale trees” are received. This is often due to saturated soils. Too wet of soils reduces the movement of oxygen into the soil, killing fine feeder roots. This impacts the ability for the tree to uptake water and nutrients, leading to micro-nutrient deficiencies, impacting nut set and tree growth. Later-season effects are also observed and include a limited rootzone, leading to severe water stress during hull-split and harvest.
The problem is often compounded by farm practices. Too early of fertigations before the tree begins to “suck” water from the soil can lead to an increase in saturated conditions. Spring rains, cool temperatures, and heavy soils compound the problem. Once the symptoms appear, the reaction is to fertigate or chemigate in attempts to manage the symptoms of stunted growth and yellow leaves. Symptoms continue to worsen.
Recovery is not always possible. If conditions are prolonged, the symptoms will worsen. Trees may eventually die or shed leaves and crop. In some cases, the roots and crown may become infested with Phytophthora. In many cases, Phytophthora is serving as a secondary problem, infecting only after the tree has been weakened by the saturated soils. The problem can be alleviated by warmer temperatures which increase the transpiration rate of the tree or reduced irrigation until the tree recovers. Recovery is dependent on severity, and may take several months.
Optimally, it is best to do what is possible to prevent the symptoms from occurring. Prior to the first irrigation, moisture levels in the soil should be dropping. This can be determined with the use of a shovel or auger, pressure chamber, or soil moisture sensors. If using the pressure chamber, irrigation should be considered if trees are 1-2 bars more negative than baseline. More on using the pressure bomb to schedule irrigation can be found here.
Michael Buttress
March 14, 2016It’s a pity we can’t attach images to share with readers as sometimes we may have some useful information. One will often notice in spring where there has been some gentle pruning going on, how the new growth is growing so fast from the cut that translocation of nutrients can’t keep up – particularly iron. The rest of the tree may appear totally healthy at the time.
David, I’ll send you some pics.
David Doll
March 14, 2016Thanks for the comment, Mike. I agree, there is potential that during periods of rapid elongation, a temporary deficiency may occur. Your comment is a good reminder that yellowing may be caused by a variety of issues.
Also agree on the attaching of figures. I will look into that.
David
Dan Neuteboom
March 31, 2017THE ALMOND VARIETY CALLED ROBIJN: THE TREE LOOKS HEALTHY AND GROWS WELL. UNFORTUNATELY THE FLOWERS IT PRODUCES ARE WITHOUT PETALS. THE FRUITLETS SET AND DROP OFF AFTER APPROX 4 WEEKS. IS THIS A VIRUS INFECTION? OUR FRUIT FARM IS IN THE UK.
YOUR ADVICE WILL BE VERY MUCH APPRECIATED
David Doll
April 10, 2017Dear Dan,
I am not familiar with the variety. Almonds usually require warmer, drier conditions than in England. Maybe it is that?
I wouldnt rule out a virus, but it is hard to know by the description.
Sorry,
David
Bob
July 9, 2019Got three almond plants growing from raw Eastern Washington almonds. About 8 inches tall growing under led grow light. Were quite vigorous but have now slowed and showing yellow leaves. Moisture meter shows quite dry soil so I’ve watered with no obvious change in plants. Have been acclimating outdoors for a couple hours each day in filtered sun. Any ideas on what’s going on?
David Doll
July 30, 2019Bob,
Depending on how dry the trees were, it could take a few days (or even weeks) for them to resume growing. Keep them adequaelty watered and see what happens. Be careful, though, as keeping them too wet will lead to the same issue.
David